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A walk across Italy in Garibaldi’s footsteps: from Ravenna to the coast of Tuscany
via theguardian.comA route tracing the unification hero’s flight across the peninsula in 1849 runs spectacularly over the Apennines then descends to the sea via a string of gorgeous Tuscan townsCrickets leaping round our feet. A butterfly at the rim of my hat. Burrs on our socks. Smells of fern and pine. The rhythmic rasp of the cicadas. And, ranged around us, a never-ending green. Cypress and cedar. Peaks and parched pastures. The combed vineyards and the dark oak thickets. Moving through it all, feeling ri -
‘Pillars, pergolas, palms and pines’: readers’ favourite gardens in Europe
via theguardian.comOur tipsters’ horticultural finds from Hanover’s formal terraces to the world’s oldest university botanical garden in PaduaVarenna is the perfect Italian village, from its hilltop castle to the shore of Lake Como. Easily accessible by train or ferry, it is host to a spectacular botanic garden. The meandering Passeggiata degli Innamorati – the Lovers’ Footpath – brings you in 20 minutes from the ferry to Villa Monastero (entry €10, open March-November). Wi -
Rail route of the month: from Genoa to Ventimiglia, Italy – a line of cinematic brilliance
via theguardian.comAlong the coast through Liguria to the French border, our slow travel expert finds the tunnels as bracing as the coastal viewsNature has its way of derailing travel plans. A landslide in August 2023 in the French Alps blocked the main railway just west of the Mont Cenis tunnel. This route is used by all trains from Italy to Lyon and Paris. The sleek French TGVs and the even sleeker Italian Frecciarossa trains competing on the lucrative link from Milan to the French capital were stopped in their -
An alternative guide to the Lakes: how to escape Cumbria’s twee side
via theguardian.comAvoid the tourist hotspots of the Lake District and you’ll discover a more authentic side to the area with artists, microbreweries and community pubsYou’d be forgiven, as a visitor to the Lake District, for imagining that the governing attractions are daffodils, Grasmere gingerbread, Herdy (the bleating fell-side variety and the brand), mountain watercolours and lake steamers. So fixed have these associations become with the region that it’s now the victim of its own twee, comm -
Tell us about a river or lake adventure in Europe – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comShare a favourite water activity or great place to stay on a river or lake – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakFew things are more relaxing than spending time by the water. Whether it’s kayaking on the Dordogne, navigating Dutch canals on a houseboat, whitewater rafting in Slovenia, swimming in Alpine lakes or escaping to a waterside cabin in Scandinavia, we’d love to hear about your favourite river and lake adventures in Europe.If you have a relevant photo, -
Be a better tourist! 28 ways to have a fantastic holiday – without infuriating the locals
via theguardian.comFrom badly behaved travellers to horrendous carbon emissions, summer holidays aren’t always an unmitigated good. Here is how to travel responsibly and still have a great timeTourism is almost back to pre-pandemic levels – which is good news and bad news. However much holiday destinations rely on them, no one wants badly behaved tourists blocking views, partying wildly in the streets or pricing local people out of their own cities. Overtourism, carbon emissions, nature depletion and p -
How an eco-campsite in north Wales rescued our family holiday from disaster
via theguardian.comWe were supposed to be on the Italian Riviera, but an impromptu switch to a glamping break on the Llŷn peninsula proved a more than acceptable substituteEveryone has a good holiday disaster story, don’t they? Even experienced travel journalists.Ours was a twist on the classic passport fiasco, that saw us having to “exchange” a two-week trip to the sunny Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera for sitting on a compost toilet in Wales. Continue reading... -
Doggie paddles: 10 of the best dog-friendly beaches in the UK
via theguardian.comA new Sawday’s guide to dog-friendly days out selects ideal beaches for dog walkers year-round – plus places to stay nearbyDog-friendly year-round but with an on-leads rule between 1 April and 31 August to protect ground-nesting birds, Holkham beach is a brilliant family destination. The walk down to the golden sand is enchanting – along boardwalks and through pine forest – and there’s a cafe serving homemade sandwiches and cakes. Lots of great local walks too.Stay -
How to keep your cool cycling up Italian mountains with a teenager in tow
via theguardian.comE-bikes transform a four-day cycling tour of the South Tyrol from an endurance test to an enjoyable jaunt with enough puff left over for bonding chats amid the spectacular sceneryBikini to swimsuit. Factor 15 to 50. Paperback to Kindle. The answers to my holiday prep questions have changed over time, but this year there was one extra decision: pedal bike or electric?I was off on a four-day cycling tour in the South Tyrol with my 16-year-old daughter. Her idea of a holiday errs more towards Insta -
10 of the UK’s best new and revamped seaside hotels
via theguardian.comAn art deco hotel, a restaurant with rooms and sea views aplenty … Our selection covers everywhere from the Highlands to the Isle of WightThe Albion hotel, which can lay claim to some of the best sea views on the island, has been welcoming guests to Freshwater Bay since Victorian times. It is about to reopen under new ownership after a multimillion-pound refurbishment. The new-look Albion will have 40 rooms, 36 of them sea-facing, including two suites, seven dog-friendly ro -
‘More Le Touquet than Thanet’: review of No 42 hotel, Margate, Kent
via theguardian.comWith its oyster bar, rooftop terrace and Turner-worthy sunset views, this breezy, elegant boutique hotel is a welcome new addition to the town’s seafrontWhen I first started visiting Margate, about 20 years ago, there were only two real options when it came to choosing a hotel: the Walpole Bay, an eccentric Edwardian time capsule in Cliftonville, with floral carpets, an original 1927 trellis gated lift and a collection of unsettling “antiques” in the corridors (dolls’ hea -
‘All the elements of the classic British seaside holiday’: five unsung beach towns
via theguardian.comTravel writers take a salty, summer saunter through old-fashioned seaside towns that have ‘not yet been Airbnb-brushed out of existence’Photographer Martin Parr’s 1999 film Think of England captures the nostalgic appeal of Weymouth: roast dinners at seafront B&Bs, pensioners with cones of Mr Whippy, the carousel whirling to the familiar tune of the funfair organ. “It’s not a resort that needs a lot of razzmatazz,” says the man sitting in front of a “ -
Welshness is essential to the Aberystwyth experience: why I love ‘Aber’
via theguardian.comThe sun doesn’t always shine, but when it does the town’s idiosyncratic seaside cheer and remote feel make a train trip worthwhileAlong the promenade come the crowds: drag queens spouting one-liners, farmers gossiping in Welsh, a choir out of rehearsal but still singing, and a man who raps to himself and the heavens. There seem to be as many dogs as humans, and twice as many gulls, all eyeing the fish and chips. The funicular railway up the cliff has a queue of Hasidic Jewish familie -
‘Have a beer by the pier’: 10 readers choose their favourite UK seaside town
via theguardian.comFrom a Yorkshire fishing village to a genteel beach resort in Essex, our tipsters share their top coastal getawaysSaltburn-by-the-Sea boasts a magnificent beach and plentiful ice-cream, coffee bars and a burgeoning arts scene. Among the highlights has to be a stroll along the Grade II-listed pier and hopefully a ride down the UK’s oldest water-balanced cliff tramway (still closed at time of writing after a fire in January, but being repaired). Head for lunch at the superb Seaview fish rest -
A different Roman holiday: novelist Conn Iggulden on the city’s lesser-known wonders
via theguardian.comThe bestselling historical fiction writer, whose new book, Nero, is out today, urges visitors to the Eternal City to make time for the quieter pleasures on offer around its seven hillsI have loved Rome all my life. I went first when I was 10, to stay in a convent. The highlight then was slipping into a cage with two guard dogs, convinced I had a gift for soothing savage beasts. Reader, I survived.The most recent was in April this year, which involved being pickpocketed at the Circo Massimo metro -
‘The greatest biodiversity in England’ – a wander through the Isle of Purbeck ‘super’ nature reserve
via theguardian.comAlongside rare birds, reptiles and insects, this corner of Dorset, poignantly depicted in Mike Leigh’s Nuts in May, serves up brilliant heathland walks, sea views and pints of local aleMike Leigh’s brilliant 1976 Dorset-based comedy Nuts in May begins with Keith and Candice-Marie taking the chain ferry from Sandbanks across the mouth of Poole harbour to the Isle of Purbeck, where they camp, visit Corfe Castle, walk along the mighty Jurassic coastline and end up in an altercation with -
Walking the ‘outdoor capital of Scotland’: 25 years of the Cateran Trail
via theguardian.comStraddling Perthsire and Angus, the five-day, 64-mile hiking route takes in soaring mountains, golden glens and some beaver-curated rewildingThe carved face of a cateran stares out of the waymarker before me. Deriving from the Gaelic word ceatharnach, meaning a lightly armed warrior, “cateran” later came to denote the cattle raiders particularly active here in Strathardle, Glenshee and Glen Isla up to the 18th century.The signpost directs me through plantation forest to an undulating -
Share a tip on your favourite UK national park – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comTell us about your favourite things to do and see in our national parks – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakThis year marks the 75th anniversary of the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949, which secured access for everyone to some of our wildest and most beautiful places. There are now 15 national parks across the UK, covering a staggering variety of landscapes, from the heather-clad uplands of the Cairngorms in Scotland to the chalky grasslands of the -
South of France, but not as we know it: exploring Nîmes and the Gard
via theguardian.comUnesco listing for the city’s Roman temple put this city on the map last year, but there are uncharted delights in the surrounding towns as wellThe director of a newly refurbished boutique hotel in the old town of Nîmes tells me he has gained and lost a star recently. The hotel’s restaurant, Rouge, run by Benin-born chef Georgiana Viou, recently won its first Michelin star. But the hotel itself, the Margaret Chouleur, has been downgraded from a five-star to just four.Here&rsquo -
Medina date – a cookery course in Morocco
via theguardian.comIn the coastal city of Essaouira, our writer masters the ceremonial art of tea-pouring and learns how to make flaky chicken pastilla and gazelle horns with almond paste and orange blossom waterIt is early morning on the edge of Essaouira’s medina and the famous Atlantic winds are picking up. The sea looks tawny and wild, the sky is darkening by the minute. It begins to rain, heavily. Even the windsurfers who flock here all year round seem to have vanished. Market traders huddle and the pla -
The best new camping and glampsites around the UK, from festival vibes to no-frills meadows
via theguardian.comPods, campervans, bell tents and even Star Wars domes feature in our round-up of sites set in glorious countryside from the South Downs to the HebridesWild Canvas, one of the recent wave of pop-up campsites with a festival vibe, has a host of new additions for its fifth outing this summer. The campsite makes the most of its riverside setting on the Turvey House Estate near Bedford. It has a new wellness area, the Nest, with direct river access (BYO paddleboard!) plus a yoga yurt, a mobile sauna, -
‘Deep in the woods, 10 minutes from my car’: the platform helping wild camping beginners find a pitch
via theguardian.comA website that connects campers with landowners across the UK is opening up green spaces to anyone who fancies an off-grid night or twoThe dawn chorus is loud in the woods as I unzip my tent to peer out at the new day and a sea of bluebells. I make tea and drink it slowly, enjoying the peace. It’s a perfect start to the morning after my first solo wild camp.I had found my slice of the wild via CampWild, a platform that connects campers with UK landowners willing to let people stay. Set up -
Glamping on the go: a wild ride through Cumbria in a camper truck
via theguardian.comTV presenter and naturalist Steve Backshall finds a camper truck the ideal way to give children an outdoors experience in untamed parts of northern EnglandCamping trips with a young family can be thoroughly challenging, especially in the UK, when the weather often skips from sunshine to deluge in the blink of an eye. My extra challenge is that my wife, Helen, can’t join us for our Easter break (she’s away training for her fourth Olympic Games – reasonable excuse). My three kids -
‘This campsite feels like paradise’: readers’ favourite places to pitch in the UK
via theguardian.comWhether it’s a field with minimal facilities or a comfortable site with mod cons, our tipsters pick out enticing spots for enjoying the great outdoors from the Highlands to CornwallAt the foot of Scafell Pike, England’s highest peak, and at the northern end of one of the Lake District’s most dramatic valleys is the National Trust campsite at Wasdale Head (basic grass pitch from £38 for two nights). As well as standard pitches there are heated camping pods, three tipis, a -
A festival of music, film and spectacle: the best of Belfast 2024
via theguardian.comA year-long celebration aims to start a new chapter for Belfast, forging better connections and conversations within communities through creativity and cultureBelfast did not have the best of starts to 2024. Never mind the mass public sector strikes, the not-unrelated fact of Northern Ireland being without a functioning government (the government returned, the strikes were settled, or suspended … for now), at the end of January, one of the city’s most respected – revered &ndas -
‘Flavours as vivid as the scent of pine forests’: why I love Baltic cuisine
via theguardian.comFood writer Caroline Eden celebrates the region’s distinct - and underrated - flavours, from quince lemonade and cloudberry jam to birch syrup and blueberry soupWhen I was planning a recent journey back to Riga, its food filled my thoughts more than anything else. I kept picturing the Latvian capital’s cafes, bistros and moody beer bars. Such longing was evidence, to me at least, that I was coming back to a city that knows how to feed people and with memorable flavours: smoked sprats -
Tell us about a garden in Europe – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comTell us about your favourite secret garden – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakFrom the Renaissance splendour and symmetry of the Boboli gardens in Florence to the trickling fountains and rose gardens of the Alhambra in Spain, Europe has no shortage of “must see” gardens, but a tranquil escape from the tourist crowds they are not. Instead, we’d love to hear about your favourite “secret gardens” in continental Europe; oases of green that off -
48 hours in Cologne, Germany’s most laid-back city
via theguardian.comCologne cathedral, Europe’s biggest collection of pop art and vintage shops are all less than four and a half hours from London by trainIt’s on about our fifth Kölsch that we begin to get the idea of Cologne’s constitution. We are sitting in Päffgen, one of the traditional brewhouses that produce the pale yellow beer unique to the German city. It comes in small straight glasses (it loses its fizz quickly apparently) and each time one is emptied, another one is deliver -
Sun, sea and delicious food: 10 wonderful agriturismos in Italy
via theguardian.comFrom a family farm where you can help yourself to lemons and oranges in the orchard to an old shepherd’s house with views of the seaYou can’t beat an agriturismo. Rural locations, owners whose main job is farming, plus food and drink produced on site all add up to a charmingly informal stay. There is rarely a reception desk and there’ll be dogs and crowing roosters to contend with, but they offer brilliant food and a friendly welcome. And they are not all buried in the countrys -
Sun, sea and delcious food: 10 wonderful agriturismos in Italy
via theguardian.comFrom a family farm where you can help yourself to lemons and oranges in the orchard to an old shepherd’s house with views of the seaYou can’t beat an agriturismo. Rural locations, owners whose main job is farming, plus food and drink produced on site all add up to a charmingly informal stay. There is rarely a reception desk and there’ll be dogs and crowing roosters to contend with, but they offer brilliant food and a friendly welcome. And they are not all buried in the countrys
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