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My stay in Switzerland’s oldest mountain inn – where winter sports aren’t allowed
Perched high above a frozen lake, Grimsel Hospiz in the Bernese Oberland offers an unusual winter escape, with gourmet food, a hot tub, star-filled skies and no distractionsNear the top of the Grimsel Pass in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland, a small crowd had gathered to take photographs. We were surrounded by bulky mountains and rippling glaciers, but all eyes were focused on a silvery granite chalet with apple-red shutters, its foundations deep in snow.It was early February and, one after -
Villagers on Príncipe, the ‘African Galapagos’, to be paid for protecting the ecosystem
A billionaire is funding a sustainable development project on the west African island that makes the local population stewards of its futureAt the crumbling colonial farm buildings in Porto Real, agricultural worker Kimilson Lima, 43, has signed the agreement and he’s happy. “With this money we can have a proper floor in the house,” he said. “And an inside toilet.”Lima is part of a ground-breaking experiment on the West African island of Príncipe, where villa -
Seven of the best music festivals to visit by train from the UK
From jazz in Rotterdam and hip-hop in Paris to brass bands on the beach in Blackpool, the Guardian’s music editor chooses the best European festivals that can be reached by railParis has some great festivals, such as Cercle (22-24 May), with dance music stars against the backdrop of planes and rockets in an outdoor aerospace museum, but the most accessible and democratic is Fête de la musique, which began in Paris in 1982 but is now popular across the country. It is a loose event enc -
Tell us about your favourite UK spring activity or day out
Share a tip on a fun, family day out that celebrates the arrival of spring in the UK – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakAfter a long, grey winter, the first signs of spring are starting to appear. We’d love to hear about your favourite days out in the UK to celebrate the change of season and the arrival of longer, brighter days. From blossom trails and tulip displays in beautiful gardens, to birdwatching, bike rides, food festivals and farm visits to see newborn -
10 of the best affordable family adventures in Europe
From packrafting in Luxembourg to cycling in Slovenia and eclipse-spotting in Spain, here are some great ways to get the kids into the wildSeveral companies offer affordable multi-activity trips for families in Greece, but if you’re looking for something less frenetic, and a bit more challenging for teenagers, how about Greek island-hopping by sea kayak? Running on regular dates through the summer months, Trekking Hellas’s three-day, two‑night odysseys in the Ionian S -
‘Children see magic in the smallest adventures’: exploring Scotland with my four-year-old
On a tight budget, we stayed in a bothy, climbed a mountain, looked for Nessie and – best of all – made memories that money can’t buy‘There! There – I can see it!” The cries of my four-year-old echoed around the ruins of 13th-century Urquhart Castle, causing a group of US tourists to come running over to the corbelled bartizans (overhanging turrets) where we stood. “It’s Nessie, I saw her,” he insisted, pointing at the ripples spinning o -
‘Landscapes as wild as they get in Europe’: family hiking in Albania and Montenegro
Mountain hikes, river swims and centuries-old traditions appeal to the whole family on a trip to the Balkans‘Uno, Uno, Uno No Mercy!” the six-year-old son of our hosts for the day bellows while leading my boys, 10 and 12, into his dimly lit corrugated iron home. I let out a little sigh of relief. The popular card game is a much-needed icebreaker as ominous clouds close in on the remote stan (the Albanian word for a shepherd dwelling). Despite the language barrier, much -
‘In Switzerland, it’s possible to sledge between two railway stations’: readers’ favourite family adventures in Europe
Alpine playgrounds, unforgettable train rides and white-water rafting feature in our readers’ family trips from Norway to the Netherlands• Tell us about a trip to a UK national park or national nature reserve – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherTravelling by rail in Europe gives you plenty of opportunity for ad-hoc adventure. We were returning from a ski trip in Italy and took the Bernina Express part of the way. We’d heard that if you disembark at Bergün, -
On the trail of Peaky Blinders, Black Sabbath and the perfect pint – an alternative guide to Birmingham
As the Peaky Blinders film is released this week, we follow in the footsteps of the Shelbys, make a heavy metalpilgrimage and find the city’s best places to eat, drink and danceThe runaway success of the TV crime drama Peaky Blinders has been credited with boosting tourism to Birmingham and the West Midlands since it first aired in 2013, even though much of the series was actually shot farther north, in Merseyside, Yorkshire and Manchester. The release this week of the Peaky Blinders movie -
‘That thrush just did something incredible’: tuning in to bird calls on a North York Moors walk
A guided walk through North Yorkshire woodland throws up some thrilling surprises by honing in on sound over sightAt the outset, Richard Baines says: “You don’t need binoculars.” This is not what I expect to hear on a walk where the main focus is birds. The sun has yet to rise, but we can see our way across muddy ground crunchy with ice. That is the next surprise in a day that will be full of them: we are still in February but Richard points out that ornithological spring is we -
Want to go skiing in Switzerland without breaking the bank? Here’s where to go …
Hitting the piste in Verbier doesn’t come cheap, but in laid-back La Tzoumaz you can access the same pistes without such a steep price tagI’m standing at 3,330 metres on a tall metal platform with a heavy harness strapped to my back, gazing in awe at the snow-covered Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the Dents du Midi ridge. It’s a gorgeous distraction while I wait to be clipped in and launched down the valley at 120 kilometres an hour. This is the Mont Fort zip line, the highest in t -
Share a tip on an unsung discovery in a UK national park or nature reserve
Tell us about a favourite trip – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakThis year marks the 75th anniversary of the Peak District national park – the first designated national park in the UK. That number has grown to 15 across the UK, alongside more than 200 national nature reserves, which are designed to protect specific landscapes and habitats. Whether it’s boating through the Norfolk Broads national park, birdwatching on Lindisfarne national nature reserve, or -
My search for the perfect brown bar in Amsterdam
I swerved the tourist traps and went on a bar crawl of the city’s bruine kroegen, the cosy, dimly lit pubs that are the Netherlands’ ‘surrogate living rooms’Is there anything better than a good old British pub? Well, a Dutch person may prefer a bruine kroeg (brown bar). Often nondescript from the outside and thus easy to miss, these cosy, homely, rustic cafe-style bars typically have plain dark-wood furniture, candles on the tables, aged knick-kna -
Stunning views, honesty shops and community pubs: people power on the Llŷn peninsula in Wales
This rugged promontory is thriving thanks to community-run cafes, restaurants and inns, which can all be visited on a spectacular coastal walkCliff is sitting in his farm truck scanning the hillsides with powerful binoculars. “It’s the rams,” he says. “They can stray at this time of year.” I follow his direction of gaze, down a golden hillside covered in bracken and boulders to a dark patch in the valley bottom. “Hopefully not down there,” he adds. &ldqu -
Spain’s very own sakura: cherry blossom season in the Jerte valley
You don’t have to travel to Japan to see a stunning floral display. Every spring, this corner of Extremadura is transformed as two million trees come into bloomIt’s late March and the villagers of the Jerte valley in Extremadura, Spain’s wild west, are twitchy – as if they’re hosting a party and wondering if all the guests will show up. The event they’re waiting for is the flowering of the valley’s cherry trees, which number about two million. So far, on -
‘A scramble down to a gorgeous expanse of beach’: readers’ favourite unsung places in Wales
From magical swimming spots to museums and pizza joints, our readers share their top Welsh discoveries• Tell us about a favourite break on an island in Europe – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherI’m a fan of the lesser-known beaches along the dramatic and rugged Glamorgan Heritage coastline; Wick, Monknash and Nash Point. One of my favourite routes requires a scenic hike across fields and a precipitous scramble down Cwm Bach ladder. The reward is a gorgeous expanse o -
Zoning in on Ménilmontant, Paris: ‘bohemian, arty and off the tourist trail’
This former industrial quartier is now getting noticed for its community-focused art spaces, lively local bars and inexpensive north African foodOn a hill that rises up between Belleville’s Chinatown and Père-Lachaise cemetery, Ménilmontant was once a rural hamlet with vines and farms, before becoming more industrial in the 19th century. The quartier boasts a united, colourful community whose working-class Parisian roots have long been integrated with a strong north African d -
Rolling hills, rich heritage and great pubs: a car-free break in Leicestershire
This picturesque corner of the East Midlands is a well-kept secret and it’s great for exploring by public transport Fallow deer are grazing under ruined brick walls in the house where Lady Jane Grey was born. It’s a moody spring day at Bradgate Park in Leicestershire and there are few visitors. Instead, there are fieldfares in the hedges and skylarks singing in the mist. I’m walking, through bracken and craggy outcrops, towards Old John Tower, a folly that looks like a giant be -
Where tourists seldom tread, part 20: three UK towns that feel like home
In the last of the series, the writer returns to three passed-over places where he used to live – Harrow, Clitheroe and Princetown in DevonWhere tourists seldom tread, parts 1-19The last in this series of underexplored, overlooked, bypassed towns revisits three places loosely linked to somewhere I’ve lived at different stages of my life. Relocating is grand-scale vacationing, as there are a few months when the new place feels like a holiday destination – fresh, strange, not fil -
Tell us about a favourite break on a European island
From the sun-kissed isles of the Med to the wild beauty of the Outer Hebrides,we’d love to hear about your memorable island escapes – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakFor a true sense of freedom and escape, nothing quite compares with an island getaway. Whether it’s island hopping in Greece, exploring a Scandinavian archipelago by kayak or simply getting on a ferry to the Isle of Wight, we’d love to hear about your favourite European islands.The best -
Hiking on the roof of North Africa: a trek to Morocco’s tallest peak
A fabled boutique hotel in the Atlas mountains makes a stunning base for hikes to spectacular viewpointsComing up the footpath from Imlil, Hussein and I step aside to let a laden mule go past and I look back. On the wooded lower slopes of the valley are clusters of tall houses, some plumed with wood smoke. There appears to be a lot of building work going on, some of it to repair the damage caused by the 2023 earthquake. The sound of a concrete mixer comes cutting through the cool mountain a -
‘A natural paradise’: the south of France’s beautiful blue lagoon
With pine-fringed beaches, crystal waters and affordable seafood restaurants, L’Étang de Thau is a hidden gem worth visiting at any time of yearWhen I asked Nordine Nid Hsain, the owner of my favourite Parisian bistro, why he sold up and left the capital to join the arty diaspora living in the Mediterranean port of Sète, he said: “What really drew me here was not Sète itself, but the natural paradise of the adjoining Thau lagoon. I love cycling and, after 10 -
How the beaches, culture and people of Corfu hit me for six
A cricket match kindled my love affair with the Greek island, inspiring both aliterary festival and my new novelThis is not where you would expect an article about one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful islands to start. It’s the tail end of winter, 2021. Kensal Green Cemetery in west London: the imperial mausolea canted and crumbling, low clouds dissolving into rain. We are still in that strange phase of the pandemic when we are masked, newly aware of o -
‘Avignon warmed our bones and fed our souls’: readers’ favourite early spring trips to southern Europe
The best places to seek respite from the wintry UK weather in France, Italy and Germany• Tell us about a family adventure in Europe – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherSaint-Jorioz in Haute-Savoie will provide a springtime lift for your spirits. On the shore of Lake Annecy, it’s a short bus ride from the city of Annecy, but less busy and with superior lake and mountain views. Hike to the surrounding peaks, towards the lesser-known Col de l’Arpettaz, or cycle on -
In the footsteps of a Welsh borderlands baddie: walking the Mortimer Trail
A trail named after a brutal marcher lord passes through tranquil countryside between Shropshire and Herefordshire but is rich in reminders of the area’s turbulent pastIn the UK, there is a proud tradition of naming long-distance walking paths after talented reprobates. I mean the various opium fiends, international terrorists and child murderers who make up our colourful national tapestry (see the Coleridge Way, Drake’s Trail and the Richard III Trail). So perhaps a 30-mile weekend -
Forget the Algarve – Portugal’s best winter escape is in the mountains
A century ago, the Serra da Estrela mountains were Portugal’s answer to the Swiss health resorts of St Moritz and Davos. Now, a historic sanatorium has been given a 21st-century makeover and is drawing people back to the hillsNavigating the high slopes of Portugal’s Serra da Estrela in midwinter requires serious negotiation with the elements, but my guide, João Pedro Sousa, makes it look simple. Angling his lean frame into the wind, he digs his plastic snow-shoes into a steep -
‘Swim, soak, switch off’: an off-grid cabin stay in the Scottish Borders
A cabin on a farm near Hawick, known for its whisky and woollens, offers wild seclusion – and a great base for exploring an overlooked regionThe tiny, off-grid cabin looked almost unreal: made of repurposed oak it stood by a private lochan, with separate cedar sauna, cold outdoor shower, sunken hot tub, and a jetty with two hammocks and a pair of paddleboards. It screamed Finland or Sweden, not a sheep and deer farm in the Scottish Borders. It was the sort of isolated location that would s -
Share a tip on a favourite family adventure in Europe
Tell us about a memorable trip where you tried something new as a family – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakHave you had a memorable family adventure? A trip where you stepped outside your comfort zone and tried something new together? Whether it’s a family backpacking trip, completing a long-distance hike, bike or canoe trail, wild camping, youth hostelling or trying out a new activity, we’d love to hear from you.The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hal -
Provence in bloom – exploring its flower festivals and the ‘perfume capital of the world’
Mimosas and violets are already out in the south of France, making it the perfect time for a pre-spring road tripAs I take my seat in Galimard’s Studio des Fragrances, in the Provençal town of Grasse, I limber up my nostrils for the task ahead: to create my own scent from the 126 bottles in front of me. Together they represent a world of exotic aromas, from amber and musk to ginger and saffron. But given that I have left the grey British winter behind to come her -
‘The most quietly romantic town we have ever visited’ – the enduring charm of Chiavenna, Italy
Writers from George Eliot to Goethe put this Lombardy town on the map, then it fell out of fashion. Today it makes a picture-perfect alternative to the Italian lakesThe ancient settlement of Chiavenna, in Lombardy, near Italy’s border with Switzerland, was once well known among travellers. “Lovely Chiavenna … mountain peaks, huge boulders, with rippling miniature torrents and lovely young flowers … and grassy heights with rich Spanish chestnuts,” wrote George  -
10 of the most romantic hotels, pubs, cabins and cottages for a cosy UK getaway
It’s an ideal time of year for snuggling up on a countryside break. We pick accommodation from shepherds’ huts in Somerset to a chateau in WalesSix vintage-style “luxury huts” spaced out around a lake make up The Shepherds Hut Retreat in south Somerset. They have modern kitchens and bathrooms, private areas with hot tubs, and fancy features such as telescopes, gin bars, pizza ovens, fire pits and hammocks. There is also a woodland sauna on site. The newest -
‘It feels as if I’m in a Richard Curtis film’: readers’ favourite romantic trips in Europe
Romance is in the air on a roof terrace in Venice, rowing across Lake Bled and a fairytale garden in Stuttgart
• Tell us about your memorable breaks in Wales – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherWe had our wedding reception at the Grand Hotel Royal in Sorrento, south of Naples. We danced to two guitarists playing Justin Bieber’s Despacito with our 50 guests singing and dancing along with us. We watched as the sun began to melt into the Mediterranean Sea from this time -
‘The intimate and the epic’: the best way to understand India is to travel by train
Being a passenger in this vast country is ‘a full-blooded immersion in the local’, says the novelist whose latest protagonist is lured by the romance of the railsI carry my train journeys in my bones, the juddering song of the Indian rail. Our first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, famously likened India to a palimpsest, no layer quite effacing the one that went before. That’s how I think of Indian railway journeys. They inscribe on the mind our fellow travellers, our ways, ou -
Saunas, safaris and silence in Norfolk: a winter weekend on a rewilded retreat
A transformative conservation project encompassing East Anglia’s large but secluded Fritton Lake has high-end hospitality and nature-rich experiences at its heartThe scene is entirely black, white, grey and silver. It is cold, unusually dark and a film of ice is forming on the lake. I’m sitting in an unlit wooden sauna, alone, in immense silence. The only noise is the soft ticking of the stove as the heat rises. Across the water are ghostly silver birches and dark pines. Above them, -
Say no to fake snow: the Austrian ski resort that likes to keep it real
Like many Alpine areas faced with declining snowfall, Villach had to make a difficult choice: bring in the snow cannons or reinvent itselfWalking up a winding trail in the Dobratsch nature park in Carinthia, surrounded by picturesque snowy slopes dotted with pines, we hear shrieks coming from round the corner. The path is as wide as a one-way street but Birgit Pichorner, the park ranger I’m taking a tour with, motions for me to move to the side, where we watch a couple with wide grins glid -
Share a tip on your favourite under-the-radar places and things to do in Wales
Tell us about your favourite trip in Wales – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakFrom the vast sandy surf beaches of the Gower to the peaks of Eryri national park (Snowdonia), Wales has no shortage of world-class natural attractions. But we’d love to hear about some of your favourite under-the-radar discoveries, whether it be a perfect hiking or biking trail, an intriguing small museum or attraction, or just an unexpected diversion which turned into the highlight of -
Cool design and wild art on a city break in Metz, north-east France
The small city in the Lorraine region has been put on the map with the aid of two Parisian heavyweights – a loan from the Pompidou Centre and designer Philippe Starck’s quirky new hotelAs I stand and look at a six-metre skeleton of a domestic cat named Felix, the words of Alice in Wonderland spring to mind: “Curiouser and curiouser.” The sculpture is part of a thought-provoking and enchanting exhibition at the Centre Pompidou-Metz, and this isn’t the first time -
Why western Sicily is Italy’s emerging arts hub
Art is helping to revitalise Sicily’s ghost towns and deserted urban spaces, with the earthquake-hit town of Gibellina becoming Italy’s first Capital of Contemporary ArtFrom the ostentatious baroque square of Quattro Canti all the way up to the Teatro Massimo, Palermo’s Via Maqueda is thick with tourists. Pomegranate juice sellers are setting up pyramids of fruit on their carts at gaps in the crowd and waiters are trying to reel in passersby with happy hour prices for Aper -
‘We’re used to crowds’: latest Wuthering Heights hype doesn’t faze Yorkshire residents
As Emerald Fennell’s adaptation hits cinemas, a slew of visitors are expected at the sites that inspired Emily Brontë’s novel. People living close by, however, are taking it in their strideThe four-mile trail from the village of Haworth to Top Withens in West Yorkshire is well trodden; numerous footprints squelched into the boggy ground by those seeking the view said to have inspired the setting for Emily Brontë’s 1847 novel Wuthering Heights. The landscape rolls in d -
How the ‘Lowry effect’ is rejuvenating Salford and Manchester: a tour of the artist’s old haunts and new shrines
There’s a lot more to LS Lowry than his matchstick men. A visit to the artist’s hometown reveals how his legacy helped turn a derelict dockland into the thriving creative hub of Salford QuaysMy nan had one in her downstairs loo. An LS Lowry print, that is. It showed a street scene: 100-odd people, a few dogs, some mills in the background. I remember liking the work mostly because I could see myself in it, in a way that I couldn’t when faced with paintings of fruit or& -
‘It’s dedicated exclusively to female artists, from Frida Kahlo to Tracey Emin’: readers’ favourite unsung museums in Europe
From ancient Greek bronzes to an unusual take on Donald Trump, readers recommend galleries and collections they’ve discovered on their travels
• Tell us about a sunny break in Europe – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherWe visited the Female Artists of the Mougins Museum, in Mougins, a small village on a hill near Cannes. Full of exclusively female artists – from Berthe Morisot in the 19th century and Frida Kahlo in the early 20th to contemporary figures such as -
A local’s guide to Milan: the city’s best restaurants, culture and green spaces
In celebration of the Milano Cortina Winter Olympics, which starts this week, paralympic swimming champion Simone Barlaam shares his favourite places in his hometownBorn in Milan in 2000, Paralympic swimmer Simone Barlaam, is a 13-time world champion who won three golds and a silver medal at the 2024 Paris Olympics. He’s a torchbearer and ambassador for the Milano Cortina Winter Olympic Games, which run from 6-22 February (the Paralympic Games run from 6-15 March) at sites across Lombardy -
A different kind of girls’ weekend: adventure and creativity in Carmarthenshire
Curated getaways in south-west Wales offer wellbeing and crafty fun for groups of women amid beautiful sceneryThe scent of hand-poured candles filled the air in the Little Welsh Dresser, one of Llandeilo’s clutch of arts and crafts shops. This vibrant Welsh market town is a creative spot – it’s where the famous Dinefwr wool blankets are woven and boasts many galleries and antique stores – and is a pretty place to wander. Our eyes land on the rows of handmade cards and mug -
Slow train to Turin: a winter journey through the Swiss Alps to Italy
By travelling during the day on scenic routes, travellers can soak up spectacular landscapes before taking in Turin’s cultural heritageIs there a better sensation for a traveller than when a train speeds out of a tunnel? The sudden flood of light, that howling rush of air. Clearly, it’s not just me who thinks trains are the new (old) planes, with 2025 having seen a 7% rise in UK train travel, and more Europeans than ever looking to hit the rails.It’s late December, and I’ -
Share a tip on a sunny spring break in Europe
Tell us about your favourite early spring discoveries that offer sunshine without flying – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakIt’s time to think about shaking off winter and looking forward to spring. Whether it was a coastal Mediterranean town without the crowds or a southern European city that comes to life at this time of year, we’d love to hear about places you’ve discovered on your travels that can be reached by rail. Tell us what you got up to and -
My search for the perfect Danish pastry in Copenhagen
In a city packed with bakeries, how do you find the best? I risked tooth decay to track down the quintessential blend of crisp pastry, an oozy centre and sugary cinnamonOpen sandwiches (smørrebrød), meatballs (frikadeller), crispy pork belly (stegt flæsk) … There are many must-eat dishes for food lovers visiting Denmark, though perhaps nothing springs to mind as readily as the Danish pastry. But how are you supposed to choose from the countless bakeries on offer? And o -
Island-hopping in Sweden: an enchanted maze of tiny isles – only a bus ride from Gothenburg
From a bioluminescent nightime sea to rare wildlife, natural wonders are on tap in the Gothenburg archipelagoOut on the water, paddling across the straits between two small rocky islands, the dusk fades and the stars appear. Jennie has done her best to coach me in local geography before darkness, showing me the map with its patchwork of islands and bays, and describing the shape of each landmark. All to no avail. I’m more than happy to be lost at sea, leaning back in my kayak to gaze -
What makes Finland the happiest place on Earth?
For the last eight years, Finland has topped the list of the world’s happiest countries. Our writer embarks on a tour to discover their secretI’ve been visiting the happiest country on Earth every year since I was a baby. At first glance, Finland doesn’t seem like an obvious breeding ground for happiness. In midwinter the sun only appears for two to five hours a day and temperatures can plummet to below -20C. (It would seem a warm-year-round, sunny climate is not a pr -
‘We had Norway’s glacial lakes to ourselves’: readers’ favourite breaks in Scandinavia and Finland
Saunas, island-hopping, mountain hikes, great design and cosy cafes abound in our readers’ treasured memories of the Nordic countries
• Tell us about a romantic break in Europe – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucherA week’s hiking in Jotunheimen national park (230 miles north of Oslo) last summer brought me tranquillity and peace. During four days of challenging hiking and wild camping through the area we saw hardly anyone else, having entire lush green valleys a -
Sledges, bears and a hotel with Wes Anderson vibes: Switzerland’s quirkiest family ski resort
Forget flashy St Moritz or Zermatt, the unsung village of Arosa has childlike charm, with animal sanctuaries, cool accommodation and kid-friendly tobogganingOn the approach to Arosa in the Graubünden Alps, the road is lined with mountain chapels, their stark spires soaring heavenwards; a portent, perhaps, of the ominous route ahead. The sheer-sided valley is skirted with rugged farmhouses and the road twists, over ravines and round hairpin curves, to a holiday destination that feels like a
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