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In the company of wolves and kings: Suffolk’s new medieval cycle trail
via theguardian.comThe Wolf Way – a magnificent, not too hilly, cycling route – takes in the county’s myths, market towns and Gainsborough landscapesIt was an inauspicious start. Having cycled no more than a few metres, from the steps of the Angel hotel into the grounds of St Edmundsbury Cathedral, I fell off my bike.I blamed the wolf: in dismounting to take its photo, I had kicked my own pannier and sent myself sprawling. The good passersby of Bury St Edmunds came to my (embarrassed) aid. Saint -
Tell us about your favourite European journey – you could win a £200 holiday voucher
via theguardian.comHave you made a memorable trip you’ve taken by road, rail or ferry? Send us a tip – the best one wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakIn recent years the rise of slow travel has encouraged us all to think of the journey as part of the holiday – something to be savoured rather than a hurdle to be overcome to get to our destination as quickly as possible. If the journey in question involves airport chaos, traffic jams or train delays that can be easier said than done.But some -
My hammock was my window on to the valley: a new type of walking trail in the Swiss Alps
via theguardian.comThe world’s first hammock hiking trail in southern Switzerland takes hikers into quiet corners of the Alps – with their beds in their backpack for lazy pit stops and overnight staysIt was a summer’s morning in the Lepontine Alps in Ticino, Switzerland’s Italian-speaking canton, and there was the vague threat of a storm on the horizon. I was already out on a trail through larch and hazelnut forest, backpack shouldered, aiming for a mountain pass. Up ahead, a herd -
Sagas and geothermal swimming pools – Reykjavík moves to a different rhythm
via theguardian.comWild landscapes, distinctive architecture and child-friendly facilities also help raise the happiness levels of our writer on a stay in the Icelandic capitalIt is said that when Norse explorer Ingólfur Arnarson and his wife Hallveig Fróðadóttir threw some wooden posts from their ship in AD878 they floated to a bay covered with steaming springs, hence the name Reykjavík, or “stormy bay”, and that’s where Arnarson decided to settle. I am here resea -
10 of the best European activity breaks with a spirit of adventure
via theguardian.comFancy seatrekking, swimrunning or bodypainting? These and more familiar outdoor pursuits are on offer at destinations from northern Norway to the Greek islandsThe Scotland-based company Slow Adventure advocates a more mindful approach to activity holidays. Options include climbing and yoga in the Italian Alps, mountain biking in Sweden and horse riding and rambling in Iceland. On the Finnish Happiness trip, guests stay in log cabins by a lake in Lapland and activities include canoeing under -
We found a swimming pool in every city on our Interrail trip around Europe
via theguardian.comSwimming at every stop left us fresh and invigorated – and led us to parts of cities that tourists seldom visitStepping into the lobby of the Gellért Baths in Budapest is like stepping back in time. Having resisted the temptation to look at photos of the baths online, I was thrilled at my first sight of the spectacular art nouveau interior.After changing, my husband and I did a few laps of the main indoor pool, admiring the intricately decorated columns surrounding us. Afterwar -
Brilliant activity breaks by readers – from Portugal to the Lake District
via theguardian.comRiver trekking, paragliding, cycling and via ferrata feature among our tipsters’ adventurous jaunts across EuropeSpring in northern Lake Garda is an adventure paradise. I’ve been several times and enjoyed the via ferratas: iron cables fixed to scrambling routes, which require fitness and sense of adventure but not technical mountaineering skills (safety equipment required). The views are amazing and varied, from gorges and ledges to grassy mountaintop finishes and, for the bold, huge -
A street food tour of Genoa
via theguardian.comFrom fluffy focaccia to creamy pànera, local Michelin-starred chef Ivano Ricchebono introduces our writer to a taste of the Italian port cityGenoa-born chef Ivano Ricchebono looks like a Hollywood actor playing a chef in a movie. His restaurant The Cook is in a 14th-century palazzo in the old town, and as I step into the dining room I stop and stare – the entire place is covered with frescoes. It’s wildly romantic. “People get engaged here all the time,” Ivano says -
Six of the best places in France for paddleboarding, kayaking and canoeing
via theguardian.comTurquoise seas, tranquil canals and glacial lakes … France offers some of the world’s most scenic paddling routesWhen I first visited Corsica, I hiked down the spine of the Corsican mountains, barely seeing the sea except for glimpses from a bird’s eye perspective. This time, as I hugged the coastline, dipping in and out of sea caves, I felt as though I was winding through the arteries of Corsica. This route starts from Piantarella, just east of Bonifacio on the southern tip o -
10 of the best places in France for paddleboarding, kayaking and canoeing
via theguardian.comTurquoise seas, tranquil canals and glacial lakes … France offers some of the world’s most scenic paddling routesWhen I first visited Corsica, I hiked down the spine of the Corsican mountains, barely seeing the sea except for glimpses from a bird’s eye perspective. This time, as I hugged the coastline, dipping in and out of sea caves, I felt as though I was winding through the arteries of Corsica. This route starts from Piantarella, just east of Bonifacio on the southern tip o -
Share details of a UK spring walk … you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comTell us about your favourite walk in spring – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakWith spring almost here, now’s the time for lacing up your walking boots and getting back outside. Whether it’s woodland strolls, day-long coastal walks or more challenging hikes, we’d love to hear about your favourite lesser known destinations which come into their own at this time of year.If you have a relevant photo, do send it in – but it’s your words that w -
Steaming in: Galicia’s scenic – and free – thermal baths
via theguardian.comIn the northern Spanish town of Ourense, locals and visitors luxuriate in hot spring waters at a series of free public baths – or enjoy a private spa for a fiverA bronzed, willowy veteran in black Speedos glides into the shallow, round-ish thermal pool snuggled into a grassy riverbank. It’s one of a huddle of rock pools, with trees and a modest wooden changing hut. We’re the only people here bathing beneath a cement-coloured sky that seems to inhale the steam billowing from the -
Where people who love good food come to holiday: Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal
via theguardian.comIts glorious beaches, great food and fine walking make it a magnet for Portuguese families in summer, but this Alentejo resort is largely unknown to British visitorsCoastal and river beaches coalesce beside the Alentejo’s Vila Nova de Milfontes, a lyrical name meaning “new town of a thousand springs”. This resort at the mouth of the Mira River is a magnet for Portuguese families in high summer but largely unknown to British visitors, despite its glorious beaches, great food and -
In May it is bliss, silent except for whistling bee-eaters: Tinos, the Cyclades, Greece
via theguardian.comUnlike its noisy neighbour Mykonos, this peaceful island is known for its laid-back cafe-bars, taverna dinners and ancient footpaths that link beautiful villagesWe are staying in the House of Light (from £62 a night, £90 in summer, sleeps three, on Airbnb), which is a work of art where even the shower drains through locally handcrafted ceramic. I pad along barefoot to the terrace and sit down on the stone bench in the sun, looking across a field of daisies, poppies and mallow to the -
Hot ticket: 10 of the best pop-up saunas in the UK
via theguardian.comThere’s never been a better time to embrace your inner Scandi with a cold plunge and a steam cleanOpen-water swimmers will never want to leave Pool Bridge Farm, where there are three mirror-like lakes to paddle in as well as two wood-clad saunas, once old shepherd’s huts now lovingly restored, waiting on their banks. Winter weather needn’t stop the splashy fun, either: swim under the farm’s strings of festoon lights on dark early mornings and frosty winter nights. Bring y -
Horses on the beach, fried fish and sherry: Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Andalucía, Spain
via theguardian.comA life-affirming spirit of joy and entertainment builds from noon at the beach bars and restaurants in this laid-back coastal town near CádizEven the geology conspires to make Sanlúcar de Barrameda feel laid-back. Spain slows and drifts out peacefully in this coastal cul-de-sac of estuarine sandbanks, wide beaches and shallow rippling sea in the corner of the province of Cádiz. It certainly helps that there are no rocky cliffs and surfer waves, and that the thick sand keeps -
It was the rock lobster: the lure of Centuri, Corsica
via theguardian.comThere is little more to Centuri than the harbour and its restaurants, but the setting and the speciality dish lend it a sophistication despite its remotenessAs I dangle my feet in the cool, clear waters off northern Corsica, I have only a yacht moored 100 metres away for company. Sailing would have been the more glamorous way to arrive at the port of Centuri, a small fishing harbour on the far north-west tip of Cap Corse, but instead I have the thrill of the drive.I follow the twisting lanes car -
Relaxed old-school glamour: springtime in Cefalù, Sicily
via theguardian.comWith its extraordinary architecture, maze-like streets and ever-present sunshine, it’s no accident that so many film-makers have used the town as a locationI was eating homemade crostata (jam tart) on a roof terrace in the Sicilian town of Cefalù and reading about Helius, the ancient Greek god of the sun. Sicily is supposedly the inspiration for the deity’s island in The Odyssey and this makes perfect sense – with more than 300 days of sunshine a year, Helius would -
‘I’ve never seen lily pads so big’: readers’ favourite gardens in Europe
via theguardian.comOur tipsters enjoy glorious fragrances and waves of shimmering colour at historic and absorbing gardens from Spain to SwedenLa Mortella is an extraordinary garden we visited on the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples. It is a wonderland of exotic plants, created in 1958 by Argentinian Susana Walton. Unbelievably sumptuous were the hanging orchids, and the experience was full of other delights such as the biggest lily pads I have ever seen. We were guided by the receptionist (with a talking par -
Riding the Daffodil Line around England’s ‘golden triangle’
via theguardian.comThe Herefordshire-Gloucestershire border is famous for its spring flower displays, and a new community-run bus service is the perfect way to exploreWhen Clare Stone’s local bus service was abruptly axed in 2022, she “got quite cross” and co-founded protest group Buses4Us. In the early 20th century, daytrippers used to come by train to see the displays of wild daffodils that carpet the forests and meadows of the so-called “golden triangle” on the Gloucestershire&ndas -
Breaking the ice – Estonia comes in from the cold
via theguardian.comTartu’s year as a European capital of culture shines a spotlight on this creative and youthful city and its love of street art, folklore and nature“First we have to cross the icebergs,” our guide, Herling Mesi, says, pointing to a barely visible ridge on the otherwise flat expanse of frozen lake.She is worried that a patch of broken ice won’t take the weight of the truck with all its passengers, so we climb out, walk over the slushy chunks, then hop back in. As with many -
Long lunches, casual friendships, no one to worry about: solo holidays are brilliant for older women like me
via theguardian.comI’ve been travelling alone for 15 years – and loving it. Now that others are catching up, here’s how to make the most of all that me timeIt’s a midweek morning and I’ve just woken up in a hotel room in Madrid on the first day of a minibreak. The day stretches deliciously ahead: shall I go first to the Prado, or the Reina Sofía museum? Shall I have brunch and a late-afternoon main meal, or tapas here and there? The Gran Via is just up the street; I fancy a wan -
Piste off! Skiers fear new lift will threaten La Grave’s old school charm
via theguardian.comProposals to build a cable car to access the retreating glacier have sparked a debate about the future of this low-key resort loved by ski tourersThere’s nothing like scrambling along a jagged granite ridge resplendent in russet and lime-green lichen, when it should be covered in snow, to remind you that the climate crisis is in full swing. My guide, Maxant Danilo, and I are at an altitude of more than 2,500 metres in the Hautes-Alpes, but even though it’s late January, conditions on -
Tell us about your favourite discovery in France – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comShare details of a trip in France, whether it was a city stay, an adventure or family beach holiday – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakFrance was the most visited country in the world in 2023. Its capital, Paris, sits comfortably at the top of the league table of most desirable places to visit – a position that will only be strengthened when the city hosts the 2024 Olympics this summer. But away from tourist magnets such as the Eiffel Tower, Disneyland Paris and -
A feast for foodies – why Oviedo is Spain’s new capital of gastronomy
via theguardian.comThe Asturias city is home to revered cider, cheese, meat and beans – and a new rail link now makes it easy to get to from MadridAs my train heads north-west from Madrid towards the green hills of Asturias, I eagerly await views of the lush landscape – but instead, I’m plunged into darkness. A new series of tunnels is leading me to the northern region’s capital, Oviedo, and among them is the seventh-longest in Europe: at 15 miles, it’s a complex work of engineering t -
12 of the best UK breaks to celebrate spring
via theguardian.comFrom blossom trails to bluebell woods, and foraging to farm stays, we’ve picked some of the finest seasonal getaways This is cider country, and the Brockhampton Estate, near the Worcestershire border, is the largest orchard under the National Trust’s care, with over 145 acres of damson, pear, quince, cherry and apple trees, which blossom in great frothy clouds from late March through April. Continue reading... -
10 of the best British walking festivals
via theguardian.comThis year’s hiking events cover everything from vineyard strolls to foraging safaris and coastal routes with spectacular views9-17 March Continue reading... -
New life buzzes from all directions: why Pembrokeshire in spring is a nature-lover’s dream
via theguardian.comSouth-west Wales is a naturalist’s playground, and early spring is the perfect time to explore its coastal paths, wild flowers and treasured birdlifeEdward Thomas’s In Pursuit of Spring, published more than a century ago, is a classic in the nature lover’s library, a lyrical account of the poet’s journey from London to Somerset seeking signs of the coming season. Setting out from a rainy Wandsworth in March 1913, shaking loose a long winter, Thomas yearned for apple -
Readers’ favourite spring breaks in the UK and Europe
via theguardian.comOur readers make the most of spring with woodland walks in Yorkshire’s ‘Little Switzerland’ and picnics of ham and cheese baguettes in the French AlpsThe area around Hardcastle in West Yorkshire springs into life in mid-March. The woodland floor transforms as if by magic into a soft carpet of wildflowers with bluebells appearing later in the season. The area was once called Little Switzerland because of its steep lush valleys bisected by rushing rivers, silver streams and footp -
My Rasta father showed me the real Jamaica. After he died, I wanted to share it with my kids
via theguardian.comI had no idea where I was heading when we set sail from Jamaica in the 70s, but I’m glad I’ve returned with my children to remember their grandfather this wayAs we bump along terrible roads in my dad’s hot, noisy buttermilk-coloured Beetle, I’m unable to take in the beauty of Jamaica’s north coast – its waterfalls and gin-clear sea, its lush fern-quilted interior and the majestic Blue Mountains my dad loved.It’s the late 1980s. I’m 15. It’s b -
‘It is magical to swim surrounded by the Arctic winter in all its brutal glory’: an eco cruise in Norway’s far north
via theguardian.comOur writer travelled on a low-emission ship to the top of Europe in winter to experience the northern lights, cross-country skiing and a freezing plunge in the seaThe view from the ship’s bridge is what I expected: a ribbon of dark Arctic water leading through a maze of snowy mountain islands. But the view of the bridge is a shock. Where is the wheel, the chart and that big metal thing that goes “ting”? You know, the one marked “Dead Slow” and “Full Steam&rdqu -
Tell us about a great activity break – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comTell us about your favourite action-inspired trips in Europe including the UK – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakThere’s a palpable sense of the changing seasons at this time of the year – longer days, warmer weather, and the feeling that people are stirring from winter hibernation. The parks are getting busier, tennis courts are being used and pelotons of cyclists are starting to appear on our roads. There are so many ways of enjoying the great outdoors wh -
Wicked Littlehampton: surf, sand, cafes and art in West Sussex
via theguardian.comOlivia Coleman’s latest film – Wicked Little Letters – has put the spotlight on an English seaside town that is ‘set for a summer boom’ It’s not often that Littlehampton, a small seaside town on the Sussex coast, makes the news. In the five decades since I was born there, I can count the times on the fingers of one hand: Nik Kershaw making the video for The Riddle in 1984 (oh, the teenage excitement); Anita Roddick, the town’s favourite daughter, being m -
Walking ancient Dorset paths to megaliths – and a village pub
via theguardian.comIn this ancient corner of England near Abbotsbury, stone circles punctuate the open downland. Our writer picks a misty but atmospheric day to exploreWith Stonehenge, Avebury and Salisbury Plain, Wiltshire is the English county most associated with Neolithic stone circles and barrows. Dorset, its southerly neighbour, has nothing on this scale, but there is an ancient quarry – the Valley of the Stones – and a number of smaller, but equally atmospheric archaeological sites surrounding i -
Spring flowers: 10 of the best places in the UK to see them bloom
via theguardian.comWitch hazel and snowdrops, hellebores and daffodils – with the country set to burst into bloom, we find the best of the season’s first offeringsThe gardening team of this estate near Totnes takes the first few months of the year seriously: spidery yellow witch hazel flowers and snowdrops are the precursor to daffodils and bluebells. Trails allow everyone to explore the 800 acres (Tramper mobility scooters can be arranged). There’s accommodation at different price levels, too, i -
12 of Britain’s best archaeology sites, events and family activity days
via theguardian.comLearn the skills to unearth our ancient history – from excavations for children in York to guided walks along the Thames and residential courses in WalesAs the north-west frontier of the Roman empire, Northumberland is scattered with Roman sites, including numerous forts that housed the soldiers who guarded these unruly borderlands. Many are still being excavated, including Vindolanda and Magna forts just south of Hadrian’s Wall. The first modern excavation kicked off at Magna last s -
Road to ruins: how I discovered the magic of archaeology
via theguardian.comWith millennia of history hidden beneath our feet, connecting with the ancient past offers endless fascination, and many ways to get involved
When I was a teenager, I watched a TV documentary about a frozen human body that had been discovered at the summit of Mount Ampato in Peru. Dubbed “Juanita” or the Incan ice mummy, this girl had been a human sacrifice, killed in about 1450 at the age of 14 or so – the same age I was. Her body had mummified, preserved in the permafrost, wh -
Electric cars seem very expensive! Am I wrong?
via theguardian.comKicking off a new series, columnist Erin Baker solves real-world electric vehicle dilemmas. First off: do they really make financial sense?Last year was a painfully expensive one for most of us: I have four teenage boys at home and it felt as if we needed an additional overdraft for the weekly supermarket shop alone (since when was a family tub of butter £7? And how do the boys go through one every five days; are they moisturising with it?).When household budgets are this squeezed, the mon -
Running on empty, or leading the charge: are you ready to consider an electric car? Take our quiz
via theguardian.comCan you face ditching fossil fuels? Take our quiz to see how you feel about electric vehicles (EVs)Find out more about going electric and choose the right car for you: visit Auto Trader, the UK’s largest automotive marketplace Continue reading... -
How much do you know about electric vehicles? Take our quiz to find out
via theguardian.comElectric vehicles (EVs) are now quite a familiar sight on our roads. But after a century of us getting used to petrol and diesel cars, the electric alternatives can still feel a bit … mysterious. Take our quiz and test your knowledge of these modern marvelsFor EV information, advice and reviews, visit Auto Trader, the UK’s largest automotive marketplace Continue reading... -
Brands to batteries: do you get the big picture with electric vehicles? Take our quiz
via theguardian.comThe electric revolution is well under way. Is your knowledge current, or do you need to amp it up? Take our quiz to find outFor information, guidance and impartial reviews of electric vehicles, visit Auto Trader, the UK’s largest automotive marketplace Continue reading... -
‘A Neolithic miracle’: readers’ favourite ancient UK sites
via theguardian.comOur tipsters celebrate our distant ancestors at mystical and atmospheric sites from County Fermanagh to CornwallCratcliffe and Robin Hood’s Stride are a collection of gritstone crags and boulders nestled against a Derbyshire hillside not far from Bakewell. It’s a beautiful place with a magical feel. Carved into the base of the cliff is a small chapel – the “hermit’s cave” – and in the next field, the Nine Stones Close stone circle is over two metres high -
Where tourists seldom tread, part 8: five more towns with hidden treasures
via theguardian.comPort Talbot, Rochdale, Wick, Croydon and Kettering – we continue our series on places the guidebook writers skip
Where tourists seldom tread, parts 1-7Port Talbot recently returned to the spotlight, when Tata Steel announced electrification and layoffs last month and the BBC broadcast Michael Sheen’s television series The Way this week. Politicians and foreign companies can shut down entire towns with impressive equanimity when the factories they are mothballing and the lives they ar -
Rail route of the month: Slavic magic on a gentle trip to Zakopane, Poland
via theguardian.comOur slow travel expert discovers the legacy of popes and revolutionaries on a trip south from Kraków to the resort town in the Tatra MountainsNine trains leave Kraków each weekday to climb up to Poland’s premier mountain retreat, Zakopane. In 1936, the fastest trains to Zakopane took under 2½ hours. Almost a century later, after infrastructure renewal work lasting several years, just one of those nine trainsmatches the 1936 time. Such is the state of railways in some p -
An eco-friendly stay at ‘the quietest ski village in Austria’
via theguardian.comIn the hamlet of Fontanella in the Grosses Walsertal valley, ‘leave-no-trace’ pop-up chalets offer an alternative for skiers looking for a back-to-nature stay in the AlpsOn a steeply pitched road in Grosses Walsertal valley, it was snowing – heavily – as if the heavens had shattered. I was two hours west of Innsbruck, deep in the Alps in midwinter, but the view was free from the rows of snow-laden hotels, après-ski bars and resort chalets that I was used to seeing -
Tell us about your favourite European garden – you could win a holiday voucher
via theguardian.comSome gardens and parks are at their best in spring – share details of your favourite. The best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays breakIt’s the time of year when nature is waking up across Europe, with great gardens and parks coming into bloom. From multi-coloured tulip displays in Dutch gardens, to cherry blossoms in parks in Germany or freshly verdant chateaux gardens in France, we want to know where you’ve been impressed by floral displays in spring or early summer.If y -
Blooming lovely: 12 of the UK’s best gardens to visit in early spring
via theguardian.comFrom an 18th-century orangery in Manchester to a sunken fern garden in the Highlands, here are 12 places to get your floral fixIn the midst of winter with its low grey skies, the scents and colours of embryonic spring are a welcome morale booster. These gardens will offer spectacular views over the coming months, as banks of delicate snowdrops, and armies of budding daffs, bluebells and tulips return. Continue reading... -
Right to Rome: why spring is the best time to visit the Italian capital
via theguardian.comIt’s warm enough to sit outside cafes and bars, and visiting before the crowds arrive in summer means that the queues are shortForget Paris in spring: Rome is both warmer and cooler in the first few months of the year. The locals are in their winter black rollneck jumpers, accessorised with equally noir-ish sunglasses. With an average of 17C by March, it’s warm enough to sit outside cafés and bars, but not hot enough to fall foul of the “no shorts” rule enforced in -
‘Time for dreaming’: five writers on the slow travel joys that bring them peace
via theguardian.comTurning off the phone and focusing on wild camping, sailing, foraging, fishing or beachcombing puts our authors in a state of mindfulnessI was deep in the folds of the mountain of Tryfan when it first happened. When time seemed to stop ticking at the breakneck pace it always does when I’m sitting at laptop, working on a deadline. Instead of blue light from a screen, I was sitting at my tent door, basking in the purple glow of dusk as it crept into the Ogwen Valley, in Eryri/Snowdonia natio -
After five years on a narrowboat, I’ve finally reached the end of the canal network
via theguardian.comA quest to find the long-lost Cumbria stretch of the Lancaster Canal turns into an adventure in ‘extreme narrowboating’“Once upon a time, not so very many years ago, it was possible to travel all over England, north, south, east and west, by river and canal; there was not a county you could not visit, hardly a town you could not reach by water, if you liked and if you were not (and what lover of boats and rivers ever was or will be?) in any particular hurry to get the
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